In the middle of the hectic city landscape, as New Yorkers, we love to find those hidden gems, the diamonds in the rough that help us escape and forget about it. Sel et Poivre is an example of just that, a cozy neighborhood joint, serving up classically prepared French cuisine in the midst of all the action.
Invited here for a press dinner along with my fellow blogger comrades, we enjoyed a peaceful evening of great food, wine and hospitable service. Although I wouldn't usually consider a restaurant in this part of town, my experience impressed me and made me file it away into my mental Rolodex of underrated city finds.
Atmosphere:
Set in the bustling Upper East Side neighborhood of Manhattan, Sel et Poivre is sandwiched between a multitude of shops on the busy Lexington Avenue between 64th and 65th streets. While it's common to avoid this neighborhood all together during the day, as it's considered touristy and overcrowded, in the evening it becomes a peaceful oasis that makes it a pleasant area for dining out.
Despite its very French menu and overall atmosphere, Sel et Poivre is actually run by Christian and Pamela, Austrian owners who have deep knowledge of the cuisine and embody the European lifestyle. The entire experience at Sel et Poivre feels personal, as we noticed many regulars taking a seat at their table, being greeted by Christian's warm smile and the staff's overall attentiveness. A comfortably full dining room on a rainy Tuesday night served as proof that this is not only a neighborhood haunt, it's somewhat of an institution.
Food:
Regaling us with a tasting menu of their most popular items, we got to experience a little bit of everything. It was great to see that despite a large offering, the quality and the presentation of the food wasn't compromised. Here are a few of my highlights:
Escargots - I'm a big fan of escargot in general, but these rocked my world - and they rocked it hard. Served up on little flat serving spoons, each one was topped with a generous portion of the meaty escargot that was then topped with garlic butter and fragrant herbs. Each bite provided a burst of flavor, embodying both earthiness and luxury.
Mussels Marinier - Although a simple dish, I believe mussels to be an accurate barometer of a chef's skills. I'm happy to say this one totally delivered, consisting of beautiful pieces of what I think were PEI mussels, dressed with a classic leek and onion sautee, cooked in white wine. The whole thing was light, flavorful and tasted like the sea - simplicity laced with perfection.
Wild Striped Bass - While I wouldn't normally get excited about this dish, Sel et Poivre did it right. Boasting a beautifully browned crust and a tender flaky interior, the fish was a great example of a mastered French technique. Once again, simplicity and high quality ingredients shined with a side of artichoke hearts and licoricey fennel rounding out its flavor profile.
Tarte Tatin - French desserts make me go gaga, as was the case with this gorgeous tarte tatin. Loving the chunky apple on top, and the crumbly buttery crust on the bottom, it was everything that a French dessert should be - uncomplicated, clean, yet still a little indulgent.
Service and Cost:
Boasting a very loyal staff, Christian mentioned that Sel et Poivre has in some cases retained their team for decades. Everyone was totally on point, especially with their plating and serving skills. Our food was presented to us with care and it's evident that the staff takes great pride in their work and that they enjoy doing it.
Costs are surprisingly inexpensive, given the high profile neighborhood - allowing you too truly eat as a king on a city dweller's budget.
Appetizers - $7.75 - $15.95
Entrees - $15.95 - $32.95
Pasta - $15.95 - $22.95
Sides - $6 - $7
3 Mmmms
Sel et Poivre - 853 Lexington Avenue, New York NY 10021
212.517.5780
6 Train to 68th Street/Hunter College or F Train to 63rd Street
seletpoivrenyc.com
East River Cafe - 1111 First Avenue, New York NY 10021
212.980.3144
N/R/4/5/6 Train to 59th and Lexington
http://www.eastrivercafe.com/Always in the mood to explore a new restaurant, my friend Bo and I dined at a traditional Italian eatery called East River Cafe on the Upper East Side. We were invited to a tasting and were of course excited to sample a wide variety of Italian goodies including pasta, seafood and desserts.What I found interesting about East River's history is that it's actually owned by an Egyptian gentleman whose grandmother ironically only cooked Italian food. I found that to be a neat story and was looking forward to trying an Egyptian take on Italian cuisine.Atmosphere:Even though East River Cafe isn't a new restaurant, it's been refurbished on the inside with modern chairs and tables that make you feel comfortable, but also with nostalgic decor elements such as black and white photographs, mirrors and lanterns that bring you back to another time. The music is what really did it for me - jazz classics and slow ballads that transport you to a time when going out to eat was glamorous and people dressed up to do it.We arrived early enough that the place wasn't crowded - we saw a few couples enjoying a romantic meal, but East River also has larger round tables suitable for bigger groups. I loved that the front-of-the-house windows opened up, allowing us to enjoy the warm summer breeze outside as well as the lively activity on 1st avenue.
Food:We tried a little bit of everything - fresh veggies, a pasta course, seafood and dessert. There's a lot to choose from and I think East River does a good job of accommodating different palates - from serious meat eaters to vegetarians.Insalata ai Lamponi - We were in the mood for something healthy and refreshing and our eyes automatically veered to this summer salad with arugula, fresh raspberries, feta cheese and a coating of lemon vinaigrette. It was a perfect way to start a multi-course meal. I especially loved how the sweet raspberries offset the salty feta cheese--the combination working beautifully to satisfy your immediate hunger but still exciting the palate for more things to come. Pomodori Gnocchi - Being a huge fan of gnocchi, I was excited to see the amazing variety that was offered at East River Cafe. While I've already tried several combinations on the menu at other restaurants, what stood out to me most was the gnocchi pomodori, with pesto, brie cheese and cream sauce. I've never had brie in a gnocchi dish and the prospect of it was very exciting. Overall, we loved these soft, delicious mounds, which were made out of potatoes and tomatoes (hence, the "pomodori"). It was evident that they were homemade due to their light texture, which softened the rich flavors of the cream sauce. The brie was gentle but definitely evident and if you're a cheese lover, you'll appreciate it.
Salmone in Crosta di Patate alla Senape - Even though the name of this dish sounds fancy, it wasn't uber sophisticated, yet it was very delicious. Consisting of decadently moist salmon wrapped in a thin layer of potato, resting on a bed of dijon mustard sauce, I thought this dish was scrumptious. It's not one that I ordered but will definitely have to next time around. While the color of the mustard sauce was off-putting, don't be misled by it because the flavors are just right.
Cannolis - A classic Italian dessert, we were curious as to how it'd measure up at East River Cafe. While I'd say that the cannoli shell was crispy, light and excellent, the filling needed some help and maybe additional vanilla bean flavor. I also would've liked the cannoli cream to be colder, as I love the taste of a rich, chilled custard.
Service and Cost:
Our server was confident and respectful and I loved that he had a clear command of the menu. Even though we were on a tasting, he wasn't over-attentive, which I appreciated and thought it added authenticity to our experience.
Costs are moderate and include:
Appetizers - $6 - $14Pasta & Gnocchi - $12 -$20
Pizza - $9 - $14
Entrees - $16 - $26
2 Mmmms
