In the middle of the hectic city landscape, as New Yorkers, we love to find those hidden gems, the diamonds in the rough that help us escape and forget about it. Sel et Poivre is an example of just that, a cozy neighborhood joint, serving up classically prepared French cuisine in the midst of all the action.
Invited here for a press dinner along with my fellow blogger comrades, we enjoyed a peaceful evening of great food, wine and hospitable service. Although I wouldn't usually consider a restaurant in this part of town, my experience impressed me and made me file it away into my mental Rolodex of underrated city finds.
Atmosphere:
Set in the bustling Upper East Side neighborhood of Manhattan, Sel et Poivre is sandwiched between a multitude of shops on the busy Lexington Avenue between 64th and 65th streets. While it's common to avoid this neighborhood all together during the day, as it's considered touristy and overcrowded, in the evening it becomes a peaceful oasis that makes it a pleasant area for dining out.
Despite its very French menu and overall atmosphere, Sel et Poivre is actually run by Christian and Pamela, Austrian owners who have deep knowledge of the cuisine and embody the European lifestyle. The entire experience at Sel et Poivre feels personal, as we noticed many regulars taking a seat at their table, being greeted by Christian's warm smile and the staff's overall attentiveness. A comfortably full dining room on a rainy Tuesday night served as proof that this is not only a neighborhood haunt, it's somewhat of an institution.
Food:
Regaling us with a tasting menu of their most popular items, we got to experience a little bit of everything. It was great to see that despite a large offering, the quality and the presentation of the food wasn't compromised. Here are a few of my highlights:
Escargots - I'm a big fan of escargot in general, but these rocked my world - and they rocked it hard. Served up on little flat serving spoons, each one was topped with a generous portion of the meaty escargot that was then topped with garlic butter and fragrant herbs. Each bite provided a burst of flavor, embodying both earthiness and luxury.
Mussels Marinier - Although a simple dish, I believe mussels to be an accurate barometer of a chef's skills. I'm happy to say this one totally delivered, consisting of beautiful pieces of what I think were PEI mussels, dressed with a classic leek and onion sautee, cooked in white wine. The whole thing was light, flavorful and tasted like the sea - simplicity laced with perfection.
Wild Striped Bass - While I wouldn't normally get excited about this dish, Sel et Poivre did it right. Boasting a beautifully browned crust and a tender flaky interior, the fish was a great example of a mastered French technique. Once again, simplicity and high quality ingredients shined with a side of artichoke hearts and licoricey fennel rounding out its flavor profile.
Tarte Tatin - French desserts make me go gaga, as was the case with this gorgeous tarte tatin. Loving the chunky apple on top, and the crumbly buttery crust on the bottom, it was everything that a French dessert should be - uncomplicated, clean, yet still a little indulgent.
Service and Cost:
Boasting a very loyal staff, Christian mentioned that Sel et Poivre has in some cases retained their team for decades. Everyone was totally on point, especially with their plating and serving skills. Our food was presented to us with care and it's evident that the staff takes great pride in their work and that they enjoy doing it.
Costs are surprisingly inexpensive, given the high profile neighborhood - allowing you too truly eat as a king on a city dweller's budget.
Appetizers - $7.75 - $15.95
Entrees - $15.95 - $32.95
Pasta - $15.95 - $22.95
Sides - $6 - $7
3 Mmmms
Sel et Poivre - 853 Lexington Avenue, New York NY 10021
212.517.5780
6 Train to 68th Street/Hunter College or F Train to 63rd Street
seletpoivrenyc.com
BXL East - 210 East 51st Street, New York NY 10022212.888.77826 Train to 51st Streethttp://bxlcafe.com/There is an upside to the challenging economic environment, which is the plethora of restaurant specials out there. One such special includes an all-you-can-eat mussels extravaganza every Sunday and Monday night at the newly opened BXL East in Midtown Manhattan. I was eager to check it out and was glad to have a partner in crime, Lisa who joined me on what felt like a never ending mussels binge.Atmosphere:BXL is a casual Belgian bar that's relatively roomy with plenty of tables both large and small. The overall vibe is cheery and social, as it seems to be a place where people gather after work, on weekends and weeknights to watch sports and drink good international beer. Various Belgian signs and beer memorabilia deck the walls and pay homage to BXL's European heritage.Food:We came for the mussels and mussels we got--each consuming about 4 pounds of them. This sounds like a lot and surely it was more than we'd normally eat--but given the endless possibility of options, we took full advantage. Overall, we were happy with everything and while the quality of the mussels was good it wasn't the best. However, we did enjoy ourselves and tried several varieties such as: Provencale - This classic combination of tomatoes, basil and garlic sauce was delicious. The tomato sauce was chunky, fresh and garnished with fresh thyme, which smelled divine. If you like Mediterranean cuisine, you will love this option. It's pretty mild and not too heavy on the stomach.
Grand Mere - An amazingly rich concoction of cream, bacon and onions, the description for this sauce sounded heavenly. We were especially looking forward to the bacon but were disappointed when we didn't see or taste any. Despite this minor set-back, we enjoyed the cream sauce immensely and had a good time dipping the whole-wheat peasant bread into it.Marocaine - My favorite of the bunch, this sauce included green olives, tomato sauce and cilantro. The tomato sauce tasted the same as in the Provencale option but the spices were kicked up a notch, which I liked. The chunky green olives were tasty and added tangy flavor, but once again, there was a missing ingredient, the cilantro. Marinieres - The most basic of sauces, this one consisted of white white and shallots. It was the lightest of the four and was a good way to end the meal. While I liked it and thought that it was tasty, it wasn't very exciting and I think that I'd omit it next time.Frites - On top of all of the mussels, which I just described, we each got an order of frites (French fries) to further soak into the mussels sauce. I ate them because I was hungry and because they were in front of me but they weren't great--a bit greasy, they lacked crunch.
Service and Cost:
Our servers were fantastic from start to finish. We had one main waitress who took our orders and a couple of other servers who brought out mussels and frequently cleaned bowls with empty shells. It was refreshing to see how friendly and attentive everyone was--both Lisa and I felt that our empty mussel shells were wiped away at the blink of an eye. In addition to the speedy service, a nice manager came up to us and asked how we liked everything. "Very good," we replied with confidence and gusto.
The cost was simply amazing. For four pounds of mussels and a complimentary Stella Artois beer we paid $20 each, $25 with tax and tip. Now, this is what I call a recession special. Prost!
3 Mmmms
Flex Mussels - 174 East 82nd Street, New York, NY 10028
212.717.7772
4/5/6 Train to 86th Streethttp://www.flexmusselsnyc.com/It's true that mussels are an acquired taste but for me, that taste has developed and I just love them. That's why when I found out about Flex Mussels, a mussels specialty restaurant on the Upper East Side, I just had to try it.
I summoned my crustacean-loving friend Margot to join me. Like me, she appreciates good seafood, so when she saw the extensive mussels offering at Flex, I didn't have to ask her twice.
Atmosphere:
I didn't know what to expect from Flex, picturing it as an informal seafood shack with a no frills atmosphere. My perception changed after my visit and though it's not fancy, it's definitely a more polished, modern eatery than what I originally envisioned.
The front of the house is friendly and welcoming, with a medium sized bar and more stool seating behind it. This is where Margot and I positioned ourselves, as we had no reservations. There's apparently another dining room in the back but I think that it requires calling ahead.
We didn't mind our seats at the front counter, as we could be as loud and boisterous as we wanted. Our seats also proved advantageous when I accidentally flung a mussel and its sauce into the mirror--a much safer opponent than another person per se.
Food:
The menu boasted a plethora of mussel preparations as well as traditional seafood fare. Naturally, Margot and I went for the mussels and even splurged on dessert.
The Spaniard - This was my choice of mussels, which included chorizo, tomato sauce, sweet peppers, red wine and Spanish olives. One word - magnificent! The prominent taste was smoky and very Mediterranean, especially with those olives. My favorite part was the chorizo--it was clearly of good quality and enhanced the flavor of the delicate mussels. What a home run!
Fungi - Margot ordered the full mushroom extravaganza mussels, with portabella, shiitake and button mushrooms, seasoned with thyme, smoked bacon and garlic. The overall flavor was a lot gentler than my dish and the thyme infused sauce added earthiness. Margot liked it a lot and so did I--but I liked The Spaniard mussels better.
Homemade Donuts - Our charming waiter convinced us to get dessert, despite the fact that we were full. We chose the homemade donuts with two different fillings - salty caramel and chocolate ganache. I loved them both but favored the chocolate, as it was rich but not too sweet. The donut dough was light and airy and didn't even feel fried--another big yum.
The Beer - We both ordered beer with our mussels and Flex had plenty of exotic versions to choose from. I chose the Unibroue Blanche de Chambly, a light, citrusy ale while Margot got a Unibroue White Apple Ale, which was sweet, refreshing and almost dessert-like.
Service and Cost:
Our server was a character. He was fun, animated, told jokes, danced but above all, he did his job well. He knew the menu backwards and forwards and made wonderful recommendations for us. We were amused by him but also very satisfied with his service. He stood out to me as one of the best parts of our dinner, proving that great service does make a world of difference.
Flex is moderately priced with mussels ranging from $16/lb for basic options to $20/lb for fancy ones. Traditional appetizers are priced between $9-$16 while standard entrees range in the neighborhood of $21-$29. Our meal set us back about $38/person including tax and tip.
3 Mmmms
